Last Updated on 7 months by Naveen Kumar
Remember Sonam Kapoor flaunting an intricately designed Chikinkari lehenga for her Mehendi ceremony?
Blending heritage and style, the highly embellished ensemble of hers became a talk of the town and brought the much-underrated Chikan work to the limelight and a whole new level, showcasing its immense fashion possibilities. It was a stroke of genius or a masterpiece that showcased the ultimate possibility of Chikan work in an outfit.
Reminiscing the days of yore, Lucknow being the birthplace and hub of the Chikankari industry, the fabric and craft are widely popular as ‘Lucknawi Chikan’. The craftsmanship that dates back to centuries, Chikankari has seen much better and royal eras. Once a wardrobe staple of nobles, somewhere down the lane it lost its charm and essence, but thankfully, today, many designers and fashion lovers are appreciative of its subtle elegance and have embraced it. In fact, you would find at least one Chikankari regalia in almost every Indian wardrobe.
Looking at some of the Indian fashion styles trending on Instagram, Chikankari is undoubtedly a beloved choice among women.
So here is a quick, simple, and detailed guide on the heritage craft Chikan (& Chikankari) that evolved from Mughal courts to fashion ramps, including the ever-popular Chikankari kurtas. The guide covers everything from identifying the Chikan work to its price ranges to styling and accessorizing it right. We are also linking in some of our Instagram favorite styles.
What makes Chikankari special?
Chikankari, an innovative and age-old artisan craft, involves intricate threadwork over a washable print. Every single thread is sewed in with care and passion to signify the virtue of this unparalleled handcraft. The brilliance and effort put in by the artisans showcase our cultural history. As times changed embellishments like stones, sequins, and other Moti works were added to it to create a unique appeal.
How is Chikankari different from Normal Embroidery?
Chikan works are more of a uniform pattern sewed across in white threads. Unlike the mainstream embroidery that features heavy patterns in vibrant colored threads, multi-variant stitches are made at the rear side of the floral pattern in Chikankari to render a shadowy effect on a lighter fabric.
What do the tags ‘Stitched or Unstitched’ convey?
Most often, authentic Lucknawi Chikankari ensembles are highly customized works, made bespoke to suit individual tastes and needs for special occasions. Though exclusive hand-stitched work on the fabric is the highlight of Chikankari, in recent times, with commercial intervention and the need for mass production, unstitched materials are now available in free sizes which one can alter or tailor.
What is the price range and why is Chikankari expensive?
One might notice that even the most stark and unstitched Chikankari suit materials are priced at a minimum of INR 1000 per meter. So what makes Chikankari so expensive? The intricate and handworked thread designs in addition to other embellishments make Chikankari an exclusive and precious fabric work. The more handwork or detailing, the more expensive it gets. But those appreciative of the immense labor and craft that goes into each piece of Chikan worked material, would hardly have the heart to bargain. The process could be days and even months longer to create that perfect piece. From finding the right fabric to making the block print to sewing the pattern with the utmost care, the time and efforts make Chikankari extremely special and expensive. To add to its value, the heritage craftwork obtained its GI tag in 2008, making the ‘Lucknawi Chikan’ distinct, superior and authentic. So if you find a cheaper Chikan work, then understand that it might be a synthetic version.
What is the Material/Fabric used?
Even though the technique of stitching is the drawing card, the choice of fabric plays a vital role. Cotton was the most common and prevalent fabric used, but later other soft materials, in subtle colors that could provide an elegant look, were used. Chiffon, georgette, silk, crepe, Tussar, voile organza, and the likes are some of the fabrics that got the entry into this extraordinary craftwork. The same holds for the choice of strings or threads used for the embroidery work.
The captivating designs sewn over net materials are considered the magnum opus of Chikankari.
What are the colours available?
The choice of colors of the fabric plays an equally important role in showcasing the Chikan work as well as in completing the outfit. White or lighter shades like pastels are the ideal choice since they project the artistry and refinement of the Chikan work.
Chikankari Styling Ideas
Today, Chikan work has marked its distinction and significance in almost every attire that is in vogue. And not just in clothes, but accessories ranging from handbags and clutches to the latest, face masks are also not immune to the influence of Chikankari designs. Known for its elaborate technique and finite choice of colors, Chikankari has exhibited immense potential, with unlimited fashion possibilities and trends. With over 40 exclusive stitch types, Chikan work is once again witnessing glorious and celebrated days.
What more does Chikankari have in store- Top Chikankari Outfits?
Chikankari Saree
The ultimate and most popular traditional ethnic wear, Saree has been weaving its magic since time immemorial. So it’s no surprise that lightweight and intricately worked Chikankari sarees are a beloved style that women would love to flaunt. A traditional Chikankari sweeps the stage with its sophistication of adorable soft fabric along with minute thread works. Chikankari sarees are also sewn using superior stones with daintiness to match every occasion. With lots of options in soft-hued fabrics, the most likely choice is the off-white georgette with heavy white thread work. What more a glow could she ask for than the one like a moon in the dark.
Chikankari Lehenga
How could one not adore ladies who dancing and flicking around in a classy Lehenga? A partywear, lehengas are an adorable and stunning piece of outfit that beholds the richness of our heritage and spreads confidence to our divas on their special day. Along with the popular white thread crewelwork, lehengas are often decorated with ritzy stones and sequins on a georgette or chiffon fabric to highlight the outfit for the occasion. Each piece is a single and unique one, as most of them are hand-picked and customized to give a personalized experience. On the whole, the eye captivating suits are weaved with peaches-and-cream shades of pink, green, lavender, and many more. Just like sarees our ladies savor the off-white garments with white or off-white thread sewed in elegant floral patterns. Fabrics with highly contrasted yellow, red, blue, and pink are also on the deck for an impressive look.
A formal or informal gathering, work, or a quick coffee with friends, a Kurti is one of our easiest and favorite picks for a simple yet elusive and sophisticated look. What’s even better, Chikankari Kurtis! Hemmed to perfection with traditional designs in either white thread or strings that match the fabric. The sleeves, full or halves, are typically embroidered on net material to display the shadow technique of traditional Chikankari. The authentic Lucknawi Chikan is white-on-white, which never goes out of vogue. Yet the multi-colored thread work which harnesses the chikan method is a crowd puller in the fashion world. Not to mention the significance of white shade, these Kurtis can be easily paired with white leggings or with a well-fitted Palazzo. On a breezy summer day, it is going to be hard to not notice the appealing attire and its suave silhouette when she walks away.
Chikankari Short Kurti
Short Kurtis often saves our time from probing the cupboard for a sudden outing with pals. And why is it so? the favorite jean could match with any top being picked. Isn’t this relatable? As jeans started to invade our closet space, short Kurtis found their way into the fashion world more than ever. To our dismay jean is not our ethnic wear; thereby to break this taboo our chikankari short Kurtis pops up in multiple hues of white and black. But the choice of matching is not limited to just jeans; shorts, palazzo or even long skirts are well suited with this suave short Kurtis. Resembling the long Kurtis, short Kurtis also has full sleeves and its borders sewed with white garlands. To highlight the richness, sleeves are often embroidered on a net material. The easy-to-wear outfit stands out in the crowd and will never let you down. Just like the ladies walking the ramp of confidence, black or white chikankari short Kurtis are a sure trendsetter.
Chikankari Short Tops and Bottoms
Short tops with Chikan work are yet another quick and simple outfit that goes truly well with most kinds of bottoms. A versatile piece of clothing, women can pair it up with jeans or palazzos alike.
Similarly, stylish bottoms are also available with Chikan work. Bottoms like fitted pants, ankle-length trousers, cigarette pants, and palazzos are adorned with chikan work and can match Kurtis beautifully. To keep up the heritage, white strings are hemmed on white or off-white cotton or lycra fabric. The ankle-length trousers are styled with either narrow or cigarette cut and are a perfect suit for even a formal gathering.
Chikankari Salwar/Sharara
Out of all costumes, salwars and shararas are among the most unique ethnic bottoms. The heaviness of designs on an ethereal georgette or chiffon material is sure to give you an angelic look. Quite like a lehenga, salwar suit and shararas are a complete set with a top, a bottom, and a stole all matched up to its uniqueness. For a fairly wide sharara bottom, the intricate chikan works can extensively reveal their classiness. In addition to this, the matching shawl could steal the show when crafted on net cloth. Not compromising the pursuit of chikankari and its heritage, the choice of shades is pale but dashing. The variety in style lies in the mix and match of the colors for each piece in a set. However, Like-colors are in higher demand for their simplicity.
Merely a drop from the ocean of the immense fashion possibilities of Chikankari, this handcraft has a special place in the designer world. To intensify the significance, it is stated that the artisans could take over 10 years to master this technique. So isn’t it amazing to have realized the essence and heritage behind the dress you once wore or would choose to buy in the future?!
Next time when you probe your wardrobe and find a chikankari dress or when your friend points out a chikan work, you can proudly say ‘I know’.. just like Monica Geller would do!
A HUGE THANKS to – mywingedeyes , sammiezilla, sj.box , thatsanguinesoul, tashuartiste, sumbulsultanpuri, i_m_epshita, ankita_baral01, _harshitaaa, anjali.mnu, therareblooms, livewhatyoulove and kdevyani7 for sharing with us some chic and amazing ways of styling a Chikankari. Let us know which ones you loved in the comments below and tag @fashionsuggestindia and your favourite Instagrammer the next time you are trying on a chikankari.
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Chikankari is gaining huge popularity nowadays and it is trending in India, a traditional gorgeous outfit that makes you feel nothing less than a queen, but the hard work and dedication required to complete this beautiful piece of art is a feat itself, here are some more ways to style your chikankari outfit at this article posted by Adah Bespoke.
Informational article on Chikankari trends.